Anne Lister diary transcriptions Anne Lister's diary 1828 Anne Lister's diary June 1828

Monday 16 June 1828

1 25/60

A double-bedded room. On going to wish her good night and saying I would go to her for a while, she said I must go to my own bed for some nights. It seemed her cousin was come so kissed and went away. Moved my bed from the wall and thus made a nice dressing place. Quarter hour this morning on the pott. No use. Then again in vain just before setting off. Lastly after breakfast, after straining, had a tolerable motion, rather lumpy and slightly tinged with blood at one end of one of the pieces.

Off from Dalmally at 8½. Perhaps about ¼ mile from the inn a few huts in a group on the hill side (left). Not a human being to be seen, nor another hut, till one hut by the road side at 10¼, & no more till (pass a very small lake (right) at 10 50/60) 11 when from the top of the hill (right) see the traces (refuse) of the now neglected lead mine, and at the bottom (close to the road) pass a line of poor straw-thatched huts (a few more scattered at a little distance more under the hill) formerly inhabited by the miners, & a neat little white blue-slated house, formerly perhaps the residence of the overlooker. A few patches of backward corn hereabouts near the cottages along the little bit of hillocky flat of the valley. A poor looking woman getting peats. About 16 years since the mines were worked (they tell us at Luib inn). At 11¼ (much black cattle & sheep about, going to a fair south of Callender) alight at Tyndrum inn, Angus Fletcher. The Orchy along side of us for about 1/3 of the road then leaving the Orchy (left) the road crosses a bridge over another stream (the driver called it Loy or Lochy), which accompanied us (an insignificant stream with 2 or 3 mountain rills falling into it) to Tyndrum. The whole of the valley which we had passed through, particularly since leaving the Orchy in its glen on our left, bleak, bare, desolate and wild. Here & there a few black cattle & black faced sheep, but, save one or perhaps 2 solitary shepherds at a distance on the hills, not a human being to be seen. (Our landlord at Killin says the whole of the glen we passed along from Dalmally to Tyndrum is called Glenorchy, & the river we crossed was the Lochy.)

Tyndrum a comfortable enough little inn. A good breakfast at 11 55/60. Little village. A few poor cottages near the inn. Off at 1 25/60. Pass along Strathfillan by the Fillan water. Glen more habitable tho’ still very wild. Huts & groups of huts (of rough unequal masses, often rounded, of stone & straw thatched, 1 low story high, with little lums or chimneys hardly projecting above the roof – mere holes in the thatch) here & there. Wider glen. Pasture ground along the bottom of it as well as on the hill sides. At 2 20/60 turnpike (1st) of Crianlarich (161/415, Scottish Tourist). At 2½ new road (right) to the head of Loch Lomond. Nice black cattle. Droves of them going to the fair. At 2¾ Loch Dochart. Very shallow. Covered with weed. Little rocky island with ruin of chimnied gable-end & some bits of old house wall. The horse quickly walked along the lake from end to end in 4 minutes (vid. 161/415). Pretty little lake enough. Encircled by high, rocky, brushwooded hill. Not far from each end of the loch, 2 or 3 neat houses.

Loch Dochart
Jim Bain / Loch Dochart / CC BY-SA 2.0

At 2 55/60 Benmore House, a small, white house & just on this side of it stream forming pretty cascade & falling under 1 arch bridge under the road. At 3 Loch Nuir, at the foot of Benmore, his high, rude, rocky, grass-covered sides strewed with loose fragments (not larger) of rock. Very wild here. Loch Nuir prettier than Loch Dochart. A nice neat house at the farthest end of the loch (Nuir) let lately to an Englishman (now away) for sporting, by Lord Breadalbane. At 3 25/60 pass bridge of 5 unequal arches (built by the English gentleman) over the Dochart, leading to the gentleman’s house. Rugged, wild, wooded, picturesque here at 3 35/60. Road prettily winding above the water’s edge up the hill. Capital road all the way from Dalmally. 15 or 16 or upwards feet wide? [narrow?] road. At 3½ pass the little lake or duck pond pointed out by our driver as the spot where used to be the floating island, now & longish ago fixed. At 3 50/60 a drove of between 30 & 40 miserable looking shelties, or highland ponies. The Dochart a goodish river. At 4½ alight (to bait the horse) at the Luib inn, McCullum, Breadalbane’s arms. Sit down there & settle my accounts of today & yesterday & wrote the first 16 lines of my journal of today.

Callum Black / Shelties / CC BY-SA 2.0

Off from Luib at 5 40/60. At 5 55/60 Achlyme, white house prettily wooded. Valley broadens. Broadish flat ground. Some corn & potatoes, a farm house & pasture ground. Several cottages scattered here & there father on on both sides of the road. At 6 5/60 bridge over a burn (down from the mountain) & picturesque village & hill. The village of rude dark stones & straw thatched. Comfortable, pretty & liveable enough about the village, yet still wildish. More arable land. Corn, potatoes & meadow. Passed a phaeton & 1 horse, the 1st carriage of any sort we have encountered all the day. At 6½ Leeks turnpike (4 miles from Luib inn) where the road turns (right) to Loch Earn, & descending the hill in 5 minutes observed the 1st view of Loch Tay. Very pretty. Patches of wood scattered over the [range] green hill bordering the lake (left). Rough bed of river (left) & approach to the lake fine. At 6 55/60 picturesque little village close on the right of the road & river tumbling over rocks (close left). Fir plantation. Strong smell of peat smoke. Now come the 3 bridges (2 of 1 tolerably large arch, between them the burying ground of the McNabs, & one of 2 little arches) over the Dochart. The water tumbling over a finely divided bed of rock. Village too on this other side the water. Most picturesque I have yet seen in Scotland. Killin very prettily situated. Arrived at 7 10/60. Dinner from 8 to 9. From 9¼ to 11 10/60 finished the journal of today. Very fine day. Cut my toenails.

Dalmally to Tyndrum, 12
Tyndrum to Luib Inn, 12
Luib Inn to Killin, 8

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2 thoughts on “Monday 16 June 1828

  1. A traveller today would still note the bleak landscape Anne encountered.
    Love the fine details concerning BM & toe nails.
    Thank you x

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