On getting into bed last night two kisses then lay talking till after three, then another kiss. She gave it me heartily and I had a pretty good one (she complained of being hurt before) and we fell asleep. I had told her (which probably excited her) of Madame Jatiau making up to me in Paris, the chamber maid at Rouen, Miss B- suspecting me with Laloy’s daughter, my snittering for Miss Desans, all being nearly off with M- and making it up at Buxton. Not a word to throw the least hint against Miss Barlow quite the contrary, M- too quite exempt.
All packed & breakfast at 11 50/60. We have really been very quiet & comfortable. Should like well enough to bring M- here for 2 or 3 days. Off from Tarbet at 1 10/60. Only a widely scattered little white washed house or 2 besides the inn. Very pretty road shaded by good oaks, & in 1 part by larches, the property here belonging to Mr McMurray, owner of the inn at Tarbet, thro’ what our last driver (1 horse cart, seat on springs, trotted all the way) said was [Glencroc], the glen 14 miles long! Got to the steam boat at the head Loch Long off Arroquhar (a nice looking little white washed inn) in 25 minutes. Found the steam boat clock 40 minutes behind our watches. Walked about for 1¼ hours reading our Scottish Tourist and embarked on board the St. Catherine steam boat & off at 2 by the steam boat clock. Pass Loch Goyle (8 miles) at 3. Castle Carrick a large square tower on a jetty of rock into the lake (& of Loch Goyle (west shore)) almost surrounded at high water.
Portincaple (a ferry nearly opposite to Loch Goyle) a little white washed house & 3 or 4 cottages. Very fine back look up the finely grouped mountains yet close in the lake. Dark mountains of heavy rock peeping out of heather & brush wood & by & by stripes of green grass. At 3¼ saw 2 seals (1 white, 1 black) near the shore (right), looking like great dogs with their heads out of water. The loch seems closed in by the coast of Renfrewshire. At 3 50/60 the loch expands. Glen [Finnert] & Arden Tinny, a pretty white washed blue slated house, Lord Dunmore. Savage mountains, fine wild glen leading to Loch Fine. A little fir & other wood (chiefly larch) on the mountains [?] of and just around Arden Tinny. 2 or 3 straw thatched cottages at the entrance of the glen. Loch expands. More like a lake. Before like a fine river. [?] closed in by the Cumbrays (2 islands). At 3 30/60 Arden Tinny ferry. A neat little white washed inn sheltered by larchwood. Left (east) side of the lake more & more sloping & cultivated and right side beginning to be pasture hill. Patches of wood on each side & here & there, widely scattered, a small white washed house or 2 peeping out of wood. Fine look-back up the bay as it were formed in the loch & Loch Goyle & break thus made in the wild mountains & up the finely grouped wild mountains of the loch (Long). The grouping of the mountains very fine. Hid in mist behind us. Drizzling rain.
At 3 50/60 at the mouth of the Clyde see goat’s hill, the highest hill in the island of Arran, and the low coast of Bute & Cloch lighthouse (about 3 miles south from Gourroch), which seem to close in the loch. We near the coast of Renfrewshire, an easily sloping line of black & pretty cultivated hill. Dunbarton castle in the distance backed by a range of moory hill. At 4 10/60 stopt to take up passengers just off Gourrock. Twas close to here (2 or 300 yards south of the town) that the Comet steam boat was lost. Gourrock neat little white washed town. White washed called here harled. Done on account of the moisture of the climate with a mixture of sand, gravel & lime. Some make this mixture of a bluish grayish cast which does not look near so well as the white. At 4¼ pass wooded promontory of Roseneath, fine seat of the Duke of Argyle. See the handsome tower of the stables (Scottish Tourist, 172/415). Helensburgh (north side) a long straggling line of white houses close along the water’s edge. At 4 20/60 Greenock, large good town (173/415) celebrated said Miss McL- for the beauty of its women & for there never being a day there without rain. ‘Tis the land of steam boats. Birth place of Watt. Port for 500 vessels. 20,000 inhabitants. Backed by bare hill. Wood everywhere wanting. At 4 25/60 stop at the quay to take up passengers. Very handsome custom house. Doric front with portico of 4 columns. Same portico at the east end & of course also at the west? Long line of shed along the quay. Busy, bustling place.
Off from Greenock at 4 35/60. At 4 50/60 take up passengers at Port Glasgow. Backed by hill a little wooded. Handsomeish looking modern church, good tower, 6,000 inhabitants (175/415), good quay and pier. Castle of Newark a long gable-ended, long chimnied house with little round towers made to project from the tops of the corner walls. From here south side of the Clyde becomes less steep & more wooded & cultivated & pretty. White houses here & there peeping out of patches of wood on both sides but most on the south side. At 5 10/60 fine back view up the finely grouped mountains all along the river, & Dumbarton castle in the distance ahead of us. Beyond more tame. At 5 20/60 stop off the castle for passengers. The distant rock looks very well from the water. The town [snug] at a little distance on the shore, its 3 glass houses pouring forth volumes of black smoke. Not detained more than a minute or 2. At 5 35/60 pass the end of the old Roman wall of Antonius. Some fragments of wall & round tower but not like Roman work as seen from near on the water, and a small white inn & ferry. Coast (right) gets low. Left, still fine mountains well wooded. Clyde dangerous on account of shifting sandbanks. Dredge the river. Clear & deepen it. Wall thrown up along the sides, sometimes along the middle, from Dumbarton to Glasgow to mark track of deep water. At 5 40/60 pass Erskine the fine new (scarcely finished) place of Lord . . . Well wooded all about it. At 5 50/60 take up another passenger. Pass several boats with gentlemen rowers from Glasgow. Here leave mountains. Banks flat. River narrowed to the common breadth of a good river. Heavyish rain all the way from Dunbarton to 6¼. At 6 10/60 pass the Cart river going to Paisley & see the steeple of Paisley church. Take up passengers 3 times more. Had passed 14 steam boats (2 of them mail packets) all from Glasgow, & at 7 land on the quay at Broomielaw.
Get into a “Noddy,” a 1 horse hackney coach carrying 4 & alight at Mr McFarlane’s in Buchanan Street at 7¼. Soon made ourselves at home. Good sitting room, lodging room & dressing room. Dinner at 7 55/60 but not particularly well cooked. Good soup but very tough mutton chops. Mr McF- very civil. Knows Miss McL-’s friends. From 10 to 11¾ wrote out the whole of today. Very fine morning. [Showering] about 2. About 3 and afterwards driving rain. Heavyish rain from about 5 20/60 to 6¼. Afterwards fair. Then settling my accounts till 12 5/60 & then went to my room.
Tarbet to Arroquhar about 1½ miles
Arroquhar to Glasgow (by water) 155 miles
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