Anne Lister diary transcriptions Anne Lister's diary 1828 Anne Lister's diary August 1828

Friday 1 August 1828

11 10/60

Two kisses last night, neither of them good to her and I cared not for them but thought it best to try the last night. All her nervousness gone up and quite brisk. Delighted to go to Paris. Tell her and fold the rest she ought to be off on the first September. They all thinking so too. Had about an inch square of toast & ½ cup of tea & off (The Highlander (Captain Johnson) come up to the Drumfin landing place for me) & on board the steamer at 5½ & off immediately. Rainy, rough & windy. It blew so hard in the night they wanted me not to go. In about ½ hour took up Borera & at Ardtornish took up 2 Miss Cambells of . . . 10 miles from Oban. 2 hours in getting to Aros & not at Achnacraig till 11¼. At Oban at 12½. Tobermory bay very pretty. But the sound of Mull, tho’ fine, not so fine as it seemed to me at first. The coast of Morvern bare & tamish past Ardtornish. Duart Castle a fine remain. The fine mountains hid in mist. Could not see Dunstaffnage. Dunolly fine. But Oban bay why compared to that of Naples? The white town pretty but the hills all bleak & bare around. Sent for Mrs Waddell who came on board & gave me her letter for McDonald.1McDonald was a maidservant at Shibden Hall and Mrs Waddell was her sister. Anne went ‘for a minute or 2’ to see Mrs Waddell on landing at Oban on the way to Mull on 21 July 1828, when, presumably, they must have agreed that Anne would carry back a letter for McDonald. It strikes me how much Anne has put herself out (paying a visit on arrival in Oban and then delaying the boat on her return journey to collect the letter) on behalf of her servant.
Instead of being there 10, detained 40 minutes. A bustling scene of confusion, the 3 vessels: ours, Maid of Morvern & Ben Lomond all meeting & being grappled together.

Oban harbour
Photo by Alex Liivet, made available under the Creative Commons CC0 1.0 Universal Public Domain Dedication

Off at 1 10/60. The rocks (leaving Oban (left)) fine & bold & perpendicular. This coast very fine all along. & Kerera too looks high, hilly & well. About 2, obliged by the rain to go down into the small close cabin. Peep out at the windows at the fine coast &, about 3, obliged to go on deck again, tho’ not quite fair. At 3 pass Ardincaple point. Fine coast of broken rock & hill. Pass as if thro’ a sound formed by perpetual islands. At 5 (distance (right) between Scarba, lately bought by a Mr Yates, an Englishman, & Jura, which came to the present Campbell of Jura, a distant relation of the last & to whom it did not at 1st produce £50 a year clear, but he kept a shop on the island & is now very rich) by looking steadily can just distinguish the rising of the water in little hillocks over Corri Brechan, the famous whirlpool.2The Corri Brechan / Corryvreckan whirlpool is said to be the third largest whirlpool in the world. It occurs in the narrow strait between Jura and Scarba as a result of strong currents from the Atlantic and the unusual underwater landscape.
Much more distinguishable when the tide is low? At 5½ Craignish point. Craignish House lately built by Campbell of Jura’s son. The sort of opening or bay around the point of Craignish called Doris More (according to pronunciation). It was off this point the first Comet (a little steamer of 14 horse power engine) was lost. She struck. Split in 2. As she was filling they pushed her as near as they could & all the passengers leaped from the vessel on to rock & were safe. Fine, rugged, bold, islandy coast all the way from Oban. Doris More celebrated for the strength & rapidity of its current. Very fine here. Duntroon Castle (left) (Mr Malcolm) very fine here, and soon enter the flood gate into the Crinan Canal at 6¼.

Corryvrecken whirlpool
Walter Baxter / The Corryvreckan Whirlpool / CC BY-SA 2.0
Doctor Prosody in Peril at Corryvreckan (1821)
Image extracted from page 185 of The tour of Doctor Prosody, in search of the antique and the picturesque, through Scotland, the Hebrides, the Orkney, and Shetland Isles., by [author not known].
This file is from the Mechanical Curator collection, a set of over 1 million images scanned from out-of-copyright books and released to Flickr Commons by the British Library. View image on Flickr   View all images from book

A little inn & 2 or 3 scattered houses between this & the other end of the canal. Fine sail up it. Fine fence of perpendicular rock here & there picturesquely broken, close (right) & left the Crinan Loch very pretty & beyond a large moss. 15 locks. Pass them in 7 minutes each. Had it been darker should have taken 10 minutes each. Canal 9 miles long. Our vessel made on purpose to just pass the locks by a few inches on each side. Still perpetual showers. Had it been finer should have walked till the vessel passed the locks.

Crinan Canal
Loch Gilp can be seen down on the right.
Gordon Brown / Crinan Canal – 2 / CC BY-SA 2.0

Get to Loch Gilp village (a handsome, well wooded place (right) just before arriving here) to halt till 2 in the morning & leave the vessel & get into 1 of the little inns in the village at 9½. Borera & I (after leaving the 2 Miss Campbells at Oban) got very good friends. He ordered tea & herrings, and beds, & off we went. [Straight] down to tea about 10. Sat talking very comfortably & went to our rooms about 11. I had been squeamish & uncomfortable but having an empty stomach had not been actually sick. Enjoyed the tea & herrings. Merely took off my boots & pelisse, got into bed & slept comfortably till 2¼. The woman had forgotten to call us at 1½. Hurried up in the dark (the smell of my candle going out awoke me?), just met a man from the steamer come for us. Left Borera to follow & got on board at 2½. Off at 2 35/60. Rainy day but pretty fair from about 8 p.m.

Lochgilphead (Loch Gilp village)
Photo by ambabheg, licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 2.0 Generic license.

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