Bit last night by bugs, yet slept well. Goodish motion after none yesterday. Obliged to mend my black petticoat a little. Downstairs to breakfast at 10. Breakfast in about ½ hour till 10¾. From about 10¾ to 1¾ wrote out the journal of yesterday. From 1¾ to 2 35/60 wrote out itinerary of yesterday & settled my accounts. Great deal of rain fell during last night & early this morning. Perpetual showers all the day. Very heavy shower from 2 20/60 for ¼ hour. Cleaned my [tablets?]. Went out at 3¼. To the cathedral. Close here. In Castle Street. Afternoon service had just begun. Never heard anyone read in so hurried & careless a manner & so ill as the [senior] minor-canon. Only ½ the service chaunted.1‘Chaunted’ is an obsolete spelling of ‘chanted.’ The minor-canons cannot chaunt. The 4th & 5th verses of the 4th or 5th psalm sung as an anthem. Very short. Good organ. Built 14 or 15 years ago. 1 of the boys has a good voice.
The service over at 4 40/60. Saw the cathedral. Of the abbey & cloisters merely a few arches & bits of walls remaining walled up in the gardens or [into] the houses of the prebendaries2A prebendary is a type of priest with a role in the administration of a cathedral. along the south side of the cathedral. The ground here raised several feet. This part still called the abbey. Entered by a castle-like private gate opening into Abbey Street & shut by the deans & prebendaries at night. A prebendary worth about £500 a year & deanery worth about £1000 a year. The deanery house an old battlemented goodish house, but archdeacon Paley’s an old, small indifferent house? The brick addition built by him, having a front of a door and 5 windows, must have been necessary. The choir of the cathedral built by Mr Rufus, perfect & handsome. Its side-aisles quite plain. No old monuments. Merely a few plain, neat, modern ones. 1 ditto for archdeacon Paley put up by his 2nd son. None during the lifetime of his eldest son, nor even an inscription on the gravestone till it was done by a sister of the archdeacon’s from Yorkshire. The transept shabby. The south end paving given way a little on both sides on account of the weight of the great tower put on over the centre. Great bare wall where the entrance to the nave should be, reminding one of the ruined Scotch churches. In fact the nave (built before the conquest), all but 2 arches on each side, was destroyed by Cromwell, who built 3 hard houses in the town of the materials. 1 in the middle of the town, still standing, & 1 at each gate. The 2 gates & guard houses all swept away. This small part of the nave now serves as a parish church. Very large, thick, round columns (something like those at Gloucester). 2 with very little wrought capitals & 2 with capitals not wrought at all. Saxon arches quite rude. Unornamented in any way. Henry 1 [erected?] this into a bishop’s see. This old part of the nave built of white imperishable stone. All the rest of red sandstone & worn away like that [at] Chester cathedral.
The clerk who shewed me round remembered Archdeacon Paley’s 1st wife Miss Hewitt & her mother who was then, with another person, the only one in Carlisle who sold [spirits] by retail. Mrs Paley’s sister married Mr Hudson (he called him) (Hodgson, father of Miss H- I have met at Lightcliffe), a manufacturer of Dolston (4 or 5 miles from here, near the bishop’s palace) who was the 1st who introduced the cotton business here & would have done well, but laid out too much money in building & was besides taken by a banker here who ruined him & he died of a broken [heart] leaving very little behind him. Miss Grisdale now at Lowther Castle. Always goes when the family comes down. Her father Dr Grisdale of the free grammar school. His father an innkeeper at Maryport. He once expected to have been bishop of Carlisle thro’ the Lonsdale [interest]. Left his 3 daughters very little. 2 of them comfortably married & Lord Lonsdale does not forget Miss Grisdale. Dr Grisdale very warm in politics for the Lowthers. When Brougham was thrown out for Westmorland it was in fact a struggle between the Thanet & Lowther interest. The clerk not having the keys of the chapter house did not see it as he said it was merely a large plain room, gothic roof but lately done up. He shewed me Miss Grisdale’s small house (shut up) as we walked down Castle Street, then pointed to the castle & left me.
Went to the castle. Large pile of building. 3 great towers. A very large area walled in and within it modern erections for barracks & all the old buildings turned into barracks, armoury & state rooms. 4 companies of the 80th foot there & 8 artillery men from their headquarters at Newcastle. Colonel Ross of the artillery commands the garrison. Fine view from the flagstaff tower. It was in this tower that Queen Mary was. Stood a little while for the view over the tower & country. Too thick to see very far into the country. [Loom] on to the smooth race course & close to it the fine white stone 5 arch bridge we passed last night over the Eden. 4 or 5 made up small arches & 1 open arch raise the road over the low ground as far as the town.
Then walked all round under the castle wall & went & stood upon the 3 arched red sandstone bridge (Caldew bridge) over the rapid Caldew. Then turned up & walked all round the sort of rampart wall round the outside of the town to the new jail. 1 of the turnkeys shewed me over it. Made no notes for he wrongly told me there were plans & an account of it published. Nixon & Barber was it? Architects. Cost £50,000. Just finished. Magnificent building. Of red sandstone. Very high wall encloses the whole. [deletion] ½ round the foot of the wall (within) nice kitchen garden. Cells for felons male & female. Ditto for debtors. Ditto ditto for house of correction prisoners. Hospital rooms. Water closet to each ward. 2 condemned cells for men & ditto for women & water closets belonging to them. Hospital kitchen. General kitchen. Laundry. Wash house. Workshops & every possible place that can be useful. Goaler’s house in the middle. Hexagon? The ground floor 26 smallish rooms. 2nd floor chapel & 22 rooms. The 3rd floor same as ground floor? Goaler’s house so built for gentlemen debtors to have separate rooms. Iron balcony round the 2nd floor of the goaler’s house with staircase from the 3? different divisions of the prison (3 divisions? i.e. felons, debtors & house of correction prisoners). As little wood used as possible. Iron roofing. Principal mullions of goaler’s house windows iron so that in case of fire only the light wood frame might be burnt. Are the floor joists iron? All the prison rooms stone-arched above & below. [Hujns??] iron-plate reservoir from Greenwich. Into this the tread mill (10 people will keep it going) to pump water to supply the prison & the whole town. The men on the tread mill 10 minutes then rest 5 minutes, from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. every day. Saw 10 upon the wheel. 30 or more might work at a time. A young soldier of the 80th in the house of correction for getting a girl with child. The commanding officer cannot resist his being imprisoned till some agreement is made with the parish [officers].
The public buildings red sandstone
The houses of Carlisle brick
Then went to the court. The crown end in a large round tower (battlemented, all the whole building battlemented & castle-like) in the same pile of building with the prison (above the workshops &c joining the tower is the platform for hanging people). Handsome court room but seems rather small. On the opposite side the street in another handsome tower & pile of battlemented building is the nisi prius court, same plan & size as the crown court. At or round the end of this court is a small crescent of neat [s…?] brick houses called (in the plan of the [town] Court Crescent and [Corn] Row) the citadel. Leading to it is Lowther Street. Lord Lonsdale’s picture in a magnificent gilt frame is to ornament the grand jury room (large, handsome, plain, rather gothic room. Very neat, gothic oak ceiling. Good [mod…l]. Plain, square compartments at top. The cornice being small drops as in Henry 7th chapel). Lawyers room. Witnesses ditto. Every possible convenience.
Near to the prison is the Bush Inn or Holmes’s hotel in English Street, the 1st inn in the town & 2nd is this where I am, the Crown & Mitre, close to Castle Street. In returning down English Street from the prison to the market cross (a column on high, large pediment with 3 steps round the bottom of it) went down Fisher Street, passed thro’ The Shambles. Got some how into Finkle Street & up Castle Street home & came in at 6 25/60. English Street & Castle Street good handsome streets. The last census (the clerk told me) 16,000. But now the population 20,000. Dinner at 6½. Afterwards, till 9, wrote the above of today. Vid. line 4 of today, the weather – very heavy thunder shower at 3 40/60 (while I was in the cathedral) & 3 or 4 loud peals of thunder & saw a flash or 2 of lightening. Fair after this & fine evening. No box come at 5 this afternoon. The waiter says it cannot come till 10½ p.m. by the Independent coach. At 9 a military band playing past the window for a few minutes Cherry Ripe. Somehow this tune (played on board the steamer as the L-’s & I sailed from Liverpool for the Menai bridge) always soothes me to melancholy. Then settled accounts of the evening & went to my room at 9 50/60. Sprinkled my bed with vinegar & rubbed over with it my face, neck, hands, arms &, unluckily, eyes. A little got in, smarted exceedingly & produced so great a degree of inflammation that, particularly in the right, there was a mass of a sort of moving jelly that completely [enveloped] the bloodshot eye. I had just got into wishing rather to have been bit by a hundred than taken such a remedy against them, when the box was announced. In despair to find they had sent a wrong one. Desired boots to take me an inside place in the Independent at 3½ in the morning to go back to Dumfries in search of my box. Got into bed again. Afraid of not being awakened in time. Called for a light.
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