Anne Lister diary transcriptions Anne Lister's diary 1840

Thursday 11 August 1840


9½  

Awakened last night between 1 & 2, cats at my cheese & children squalling enough to distract the old gent himself. A- awoke me before 6 anxious to be off. She ordered the horses. She out of sorts. Terrible! Did a good job. So many women & people, knew not whom to give to. Gave nothing. The cottages so hid amid the trees & vines & 8 ft high maise, hardly visible except when close upon them. Off at 6 50/.. . The children especially, & the men & women, look pale & yellow & unhealthy in this moist, hot [bottom].

At 7 35/.. Eugom. Fine river nearish left, ascend highish (left bank) above it & go upwards along its broad, boulder-bedded, islandy, streamy course, forever thro’ lanes of alder & hazel, every now & then in our eyes. Bits of deep mud every now and then. At 8¼ at village of Dvjari i.e. orchards, vine-covered, trees alders [pyrens diosp.] etc (the woods chiefly beech & next in quantity oak). At 8 20/.. close up the Eugom, then ascend again on higher ground always in the village of Dvjari, no houses to be seen. All hid. Fine river viewing downwards amid lower green wooded, rounded, beautiful hills & upwards amid higher such hills. Beautiful valley. At 8 55/.. at the large beautiful [qua..?] green of the village in style of Zugdidi. With several picturesque, goodish galleried [sacles] scattered around. Alight at one of them (empty) at 9 to breakfast. The white kupost castle on wooded ridge of hill, almost hid among the wood close over the river (left bank). Wrote so far till now 11 10/.. & of very nearly 21o. Breakfast from 11¼ to 12 50/.. including a tolerably comfortable wash in the [sacle].

Off at 1¾. At 2 50/.. out of our narrow lanes through tall bracken in the [bottom] & passed thro’ wood (beech & Spanish chestnut & alder & walnut) & up steepish not good ascent & then fine view over rich, extensive wooded plain & the old tower of Prince Āppăkīdzĭ at the village of Satchina close (left). Stop 5 mins under enormous lime tree for the men to get water.

Off again from Satchina at 2 55/.. . Steepish bad descent [down] wood again from here. Then up the hill & down & forded little stream & 2 or 3 more cottages at 3½, still the village of Satchina, & Indian corn 9 or 10 feet high. A village (Sapêlĭ) is a little district. At 3 35/.. ford good, broadish stream, the Insēērăh, & at 3 42/.. ford the Islēēăh, an equally good stream. Beautiful little green [comby?] valleys among the rounded, wooded hills, & here & there [h…res] & [f…ds] on the lower hills. At 3 47/.. ford the Islēēăh again. Several more scattered cottages, still same the village of Satchīnă.

At 4 10 the village of Nărdōōgĕe [hid] at a little distance (left). At 4 18/.. in the [bottom], & ford little stream & ascend again. At 4 40/.. put on mackintosh cloak (rain not heavy but likely to continue). At 4 55/.. stop at wicker [hedji] against field of Indian corn, said to be & village of Djkālĭ, though I see no house at all. The old castle of Djĕyālĭ (Prince Martchar Dadian). He lives at some other village. Castle deserted & empty? Beautiful group of valleys & rounded hills. Mingrelia[1] very beautiful & fine race of men e.g. our David & several others whom we have seen. All our 3 men have left us to seek somebody or something. [Adam] came back in ½ hour. A- had had an egg beaten up & I had the [things] off my horse & done up my mackintosh. David does not know the road. Get a man to go with us to the village. He now says it is 6 (instead of 3) hours from here to [word missing?] & 6 days from here to [Muri]. Terrible! An hour lost here.

Off to the village Djkali at 6 5/.. & arrived at 6¾. 2 [sacles]. Arrange ourselves in the Indian corn barn (a little wicker place perhaps 4½ x 3 yards. Spread our [burcas] on straw. Now, 8 25/.. I have [just] in it the last 19 lines. High hills north & within ridges of wooded hill rising every now & then into little wooded conical summits. The sides of the hill furrowed and little conical summits on the ridges of the sides. Tea etc at 8 25/.. .

[1] From the 16th century to 1857 Mingrelia was an independent principality was under the rule of the House of Dadiani, under the patronage of the Russian Emipire.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mingrelia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/House_of_Dadiani

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